The 411 on New Climbing Shoes!

As I’m attempting to progress, I realized that I needed to invest in a new pair of shoes that were a little more high performance. So I just purchased these from Nomad Ventures in Escondido. This is such a great little store, the staff are so helpful and knowledgeable about climbing. I think every single person who works there is a climber.

I tried these shoes out for the first time yesterday and I wasn’t impressed. They didn’t smear very well and I got them pretty small so they hurt. I’m a size 9, so I bought a size 9. I’m sure that this is how climbing shoes are supposed to fit and I’ve been spoiled by my old comfy shoes. The plus of these shoes, as a friend of mine pointed out, is the rubber is harder and is probably much better for micro-edges and what not (which is ultimately why I bought them). We’ll see how they work out in the long run.

I’ve sported the La Sportiva Mythos (Men’s were purple and I like purple) for about 4 or 5 years, but they’ve spent much of that time in the closet (and for the record, I bought these at Nomad too!). They were great shoes! Comfy, never got smelly, could smear on anything and the lace around the ankle made them extra snug! Problem was, they stretched out and weren’t very good at micro-edges. Apparently this shoe is notorious for stretching out.

Oldie, but goodies.

Here’s the deal, climbing shoes are either made out of leather or synthetic material. The Evolv shoes I got are synthetic, my old ones were leather. What’s the difference? This…

The pro of leather shoes: they don’t smell as bad because they are wick away sweat. Synthetic shoes tend to smell (and your feet roll around a little because they don’t wick away sweat as well).

The con of leather shoes: they stretch. Synthetic shoes don’t.

I’m definitely going to keep these Mythos around for crack climbing and what not. Most likely I’ll be resorting back to these shoes when my other ones are too painful to wear. :)


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